White Rabbit

I wasn’t quite sure what to expect with White Rabbit, of course, I’d seen their episode on Chefs Table and read about them on the World 50 Best Restaurants list but we were in Russia after all and to be honest before visiting I didn’t know much about it at all. We ended up walking there which was nice and easy.

It was a little difficult to find the actual entrance to the restaurant, a bit of a rabbit warren if you will. However soon we’d made it up to the stunning globe like glass rooftop. As we enter there is live seafood in a tank and we’re taken up to our table.

We’re given a mushroom bouillon as a compliment to start it’s nice and rich and comforting. We have a prosecco to begin (our choice) and have a look at the menu. We can do a Russian Revolution tasting menu or a large number of a la carte courses. We decide to trust the chef and go with the tasting menu.

They take away our bread plates and bring out copies of the menu with a bit more details on them so we can follow along as we journey through our afternoon. They’ll be taking us through a bit of Russian history through food. I love this!

Of course, we have to start with a shot, we think it’s Vodka but it’s actually Polugar White Rabbit Reserve which is Russian distilled like a scotch whiskey. You must wait until the first course comes out before you drink it though.

Our first course is Lardo, coco lardo, smoked black caviar and black bread. Close your eyes when you’re eating it to embrace the flavour. They’ve actually made the coconut taste like lard which is a traditional Russian dish. Served with the saltiness of the caviar is just delicious.

Ryazhenka, swan liver and rhubarb marshmallow. It’s another Russian dish, however, is very clever and complex while still following Russian traditions. And it tastes good too! The flavours combine really nicely. We’ve also got nice spacing between courses early on.

Sea scallops, eucalyptus, milk and nuts. Big sizes! Great taste with a nice little kick from the powder that leaves a little tingle in my mouth.

We ask for the sommelier to help us choose our next wine, we didn’t see wine pairing as an option. He is what we imagined Russians to be like, quite short and to the point without much of a smile, but he did the job well and helped us find a nice wine.

Noodle, buckwheat, seaweed and black caviar. It also has black truffle sprinkled on top. A very nice dish, well done, nice flavours without being too much.

Uni, sea-buckthorn. Sea urchin with blackthorn sorbet. The berries are put on the table so we can see what they look like, reminding me a little of Central. It’s an incredibly clever flavour combination, fresh and light.

The service here is fast, efficient and nice without being stuffy. The waitresses Ana and Elena are lovely!

Okroshka, salted milk mushroom and cucumber brine. It’s like a cold Russian soup, fantastic with once again clever flavours with a nice little kick. I just love it when a restaurant can make me like a mushroom dish.

The bathrooms are communal which I find very forward thinking. It’s a theatrical experience and very much feels like going a bit down the rabbit hole. The candles have wax pellets in them, there is music playing, Molten Brown handwash and lotion, White Rabbit branded mentos and toothpicks. Very swanky but cool.

Cabbage pie, baked cabbage and caviar. As they pour the caviar with butter sauce over the cabbage it creates what resembles a caviar rainbow. This dish is unreal. I love how when you cut into the cabbage the caviar swims into the crevices. We are all happy, happy, happy with this one!

Crab, crab, apples in sour cream and fermented lemon. Chicken bouillon and fermented lemon. Wow. Flavours are incredible.

Stew, cod, chanterelles and roasted crawfish. I wasn’t a huge fan of this one but the table loves it and labels it glorious.

Honey wine and Antonovka apple. A nice little palate cleanser before we move on to the beef.

Barbecue, beef, sorrel and gooseberries. Ribeye from Russia. It’s a good beef dish but not as tantalising as some of the other courses have been. I’m thankful for a beef dish after Aperge though!

Erofeyich, fried hazelnuts and aloe vera. Plating wasn’t amazing on this one but the flavours combined just right, sweet and yum.

Black bread, sour cream and seawater. There are some challenging flavours in this one that the table is undecided about. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with it but we’re just not sure about it.

Abashevskaja, I missed the story while I was in the bathroom and knocked mine over which they very kindly replaced. Nice wee flavour punch.

We’re given a present from the chef and told to smell the noses and pick the flavour we like best. Soon after comes out a small perfume bottle for us to take away with us. Such a lovely thoughtful dish.

Vladimir comes up to greet the tables and we’re invited to take photos with him. Fabulous. We finish our afternoon with a shot of Vodka of course. Our bill is served in a Russian doll, clever.

Overall White Rabbit was an absolute standout. Actually worth the trip to Russia for. They’re doing some incredibly creative things in the kitchen while showcasing some of the histories of Russian cuisine in a crazy innovative way.

Latest ranking:

  1. Blue Hill at Stone Barns
  2. Eleven Madison Park
  3. Tim Raue
  4. D.O.M
  5. White Rabbit
  6. Piazza Duomo and Reale
  7. Central
  8. Quintonil
  9. Asador Etxebarri
  10. Maido
  11. Le Calandre
  12. The Ledbury
  13. Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen
  14. Tegui
  15. Septime
  16. Mugaritz
  17. The Clove Club
  18. Saison
  19. Borago
  20. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
  21. Arzak
  22. Azurmendi
  23. Mirazur
  24. Lyle’s
  25. Le Bernardin
  26. Alinea
  27. Dinner by Heston
  28. Astrid y Gaston
  29. Cosme
  30. Pujol
  31. Arpege
  32. Restaurant Steirereck

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